On a C-41 color film we have multiple layers, each one sensitive to a different color of light, producing the appropriate dye when developed. C-41 is, in most cases, reserved for color film processing. Now, when I hear ‘C-41’ I almost instantly think of Colour films, as I’m sure many others do. Scanning and printing are both also very easy, with the added luxury of a Red safelight in the darkroom if you’re working with black and white papers! After processing, you can do a huge number of things to help prolong their already long life. If you keep them in the dark and in the fridge before shooting them, you’ll find they last for years. One last point about these films is that they’re very stable. What’s important is consistency! Make sure that there isn’t too much difference in temperature between each step and you’ll be doing fine! Make sure it’s somewhere around the recommended temperature and you’ll be fine. This process requires a degree of temperature control, but from my own experience, I’d say it’s very flexible. After this, you give it a rinse and hang it up to dry! This simply removes any of the unexposed silver crystals, to stop them yellowing and damaging the negative. Once your stop is done, you then throw in a ‘Fixer’ chemical. After development, you have to ‘Stop’ the process, this can either be done with a special stop bath or with some water (I use the latter). The developer reacts with the exposed silver crystals on the film and creates the image you’ll eventually see on the negative. If you can get hold of a few different developers, run a few experiments and see which ones give you the best results. This isn’t essential though, as Ilford films will work perfectly well with another developer such as Kodak’s T-Max, and you’ll still get stunning results. As a general rule, I try and match the film and developer brands, for example, I shoot a lot of Ilford film, and so I use the Ilfotec LC-29 developer. There are lots of different types of developer for B&W film out there, and they’re all easily available at a reasonable price. The process is also incredibly simple, so simple you can do it at home – and lots of people do! After the film has been exposed, you load it onto a spool and put it into a tank, then throw in your developer. One of the nice things about Silver Gelatin films for B&W work is that they’re doing what they were designed to do, and they do a very good job at it. This mix of Silver and Gelatin is then painted onto the film back, which in most cases is made out of a material resembling plastic, although it can be anything. The ‘Traditional’ Black and White films you see are referred to as Silver Gelatin, the reason for this is fairly simple They’re made of tiny crystals of silver salts suspended in Gelatin. You could also first meter the scene and then lower your settings so you get one-stop lower.So, you want to shoot some Black and White, but you’re not sure which type of film you should go for, ‘Traditional’ or C-41? Let’s have a look at the details of both, and see if we can make up our minds. You should shoot it one-stop lower so that would be?Īnd now if it was a pack of expired film from 1999?
#Kodak c41 black and white film iso
So for example you are using a 400 ISO film from 2009. This should only be applied to color negative film, slide film is ofter better to shoot on “normal “box speed.įor every TEN YEARS, a roll of film is expired shoot it ONE-STOP LOWER. You know, have a little bit more sensitivity for it. Some film might be stored in a fridge and some might not, so shooting expired film is always a chance of luck.īecause the film is expired you should keep in mind you could adjust the ISO to its “new age”. If you want a new-looking film you should buy a new film and not expired right? Also, some may have a little bit of age to them as well. Packages may look different than shown because the designs change through the years. Our expired film can be bought in several options, this depends on the specific film.įilm with “no box” means that we could not save the outer package, due to its age. If this is an expired film, it is untested and no guarantees are given. Kodak claims that Kodacolor was "the world's first true color negative film". In still photography, Kodak's Kodacolor brand has been associated with various color negative films (i.e., films that produce negatives for making color prints on paper) since 1942.
The film was initially released in 1972 in 110 film size only so that non-Kodak processing labs would have time to set up lines using the C-41 process. It was designed as a major improvement to meet the needs of the small 13×17 mm negatives used in 110 films for the Kodak Pocket Instamatic cameras. Kodacolor-II was the first of a new generation of Kodak color negative films using the C-41 Process.
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